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As an architecture student in the 1980s, I spent a few weeks measuring and preparing drawings of a 12th century temple in the southern Indian town of Thrissur. I revisited the temple complex in 2009 and recalled very little from the previous stay, but was stirred by the architecture this time - the sensual form of the stone plinths, faceted columns in shades of nut brown and kumkum red, the clarity of the grid-like enclosure of the temple complex and the deceivingly loose placement of the shrines modulating the flow of space gently, nudging not forcing. The modest grace of the devotees encircling the temple offering prayers; the practiced ease with which they gather the hem of their mundus as they walk, climb, bow, or fall prostrate; confronting me with a troubling certainty: my inability to cross from observer to believer.